Rodents

National Fancy Rat Society

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The National Fancy Rat Society (NFRS), founded in 1976, is a UK based club for rat fanciers that promotes fancy rats exhibitions, as well as the study and breeding of these rats. The society publishes a bi-monthly journal, Pro-Rat-A, and holds many shows throughout the year all over Britain, with membership in the thousands.

For a number of years pet rats had been appearing at mouse shows in Britain. Publicity in Fur & Feather magazine had increased interest in the fledgling fancy and caused an increase in entries in the rat sections of mouse shows during 1974 and 1975 to the point that after cajoling from the mouse fanciers it was decided to form a club or society purely for rat fanciers.

History

The National Fancy Rat Society was formed on January 13, 1976. The fledgling society staged its first exhibition just over a week later at the 1976 Bradford Championship Show, one of the most prestigious small livestock championship shows in the UK. This coincided with the debut of a new variety of fancy rat, the curly-coated Rex. The very first NFRS show was staged at Clymping, West Sussex, in conjunction with the Southern Hamster Club. It wasn't until April 15, 1978 that the society staged a show entirely on its own; this show (in Surbiton, Surrey) was the very first all-rats show ever staged. The society has gone from strength to strength ever since.

Gambian pouched rat

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The Gambian pouched rat, also known as the African giant pouched rat, is a nocturnal pouched rat of the giant pouched rat genus Cricetomys. It is among the largest muroids in the world. It is widespread in Africa, ranging geographically from Senegal to Kenya and from Angola to Mozambique (although it is absent from much of the DR Congo, where Emin's pouched rat is present) and in altitude from sea level to 2000 m. It is also an invasive species in Grassy Key in the Florida Keys.

Characteristics

The Gambian pouched rat has very poor eyesight and so depends on its senses of smell and hearing. Its name comes from the large, hamster-like pouches in its cheeks. It is not a true rat but is part of a uniquely African branch of muroid rodents.

In its native Africa, this pouched rat lives in colonies of up to twenty, usually in forests and thickets, but also commonly in termite mounds. It is omnivorous, feeding on vegetables, insects, crabs, snails, and other items, but apparently preferring palm fruits and palm kernels.

Unlike domestic rats, it has cheek pouches like a hamster. These cheek pouches allow it to gather up several kilograms of nuts per night for storage underground. It has been known to stuff its pouches so full of date palm nuts so as to be hardly able to squeeze through the entrance of its burrow. The burrow consists of a long passage with side alleys and several chambers, one for sleeping and the others for storage.

The Gambian pouched rat reaches sexual maturity at 5–7 months of age. It has up to four litters every nine months, with up to six offspring in each litter.

Males are territorial and tend to be aggressive when they encounter one another; otherwise, this rodent is extremely friendly and has become popular as an exotic pet. It is intelligent, social and can be very gentle if handled from an early age.

In Africa, it is routinely eaten as bushmeat. It (and other mammals) are referred to by the pidgin name of "beef".

Invasive threat in Florida

Currently, these rats have become an invasive species on Grassy Key in the Florida Keys. Perry et al. (2006) confirmed that animals found on the island are, in fact, representative of a breeding population and are not isolated escapees. It is unknown how the rat was released to the wild, and there is fear that if the rats reach Key Largo, they could invade the Everglades and cause great ecological damage. As fruit eaters, the rats also pose a huge agricultural threat to South Florida, prompting USDA leadership in the trapping effort. Peterson et al. (2006) determined through computer modeling that C. gambianus (and, to a lesser degree, C. emini) has strong potential to be successfully invasive across much of the mainland USA, particularly the Southeast. Biologists say it would compete for food with native species, carry diseases, and damage the bird population by eating their eggs.

This outsized African rodent is also believed to be responsible for the current outbreak of monkeypox in the United States. In 2003, the United States' CDC and FDA issued an order preventing the importation of the rodents following the first reported outbreak of monkeypox. Around 20 individuals were affected. Several African species are believed to carry the disease.

In September 2008, the FDA and CDC have lifted the ban on pouched rats as pets in the United States. They are still illegal to import from outside the USA.

Down Under Rat

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The Down Under rat is a fancy rat variety noted for the markings on its stomach. The "downunder" marking refers to both a patch of colour on the underside of the rat which matches the coat colouring on the top, and to the variety's Australian origins.

While most varieties either have a white pattern on their undersides, or they are completely one colour, the Down Under stands out for its coloured ventral markings against a white background. These markings may be symmetrical or asymmetrical shapes, stripes, or spots. Additionally, because other markings are traditionally found on other parts of the body, Downunders are able to be crossed with those markings to produce varieties like a DU blaze—a rat with a white stripe on its nose. The genes for creating a Downunder rat are dominant, needing only one parent to produce the marking.

Due to Australia's strict importation laws, rats are prohibited from being intentionally brought into the country. This has forced the rat fancy hobby to develop varieties in parallel to those found abroad. The Down Under is the first variety to originate in Australia. It was first noted in a litter of hairless rats in New South Wales. The first breeding Down Under was a furred male named Enigma. It is sometimes thought that the Down Under variety came from breeders in Brisbane, the bRatpack and RatmanDU ratteries. However, these breeders are actually just credited with shipping the first Downunders overseas.

Black Rat

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The Black Rat is a common long-tailed rodent of the genus Rattus (rats) in the subfamily Murinae (murine rodents). The species originated in tropical Asia and spread through the Near East in Roman times before reaching Europe by the 6th century and spreading with Europeans across the world. Today it is again largely confined to warmer areas, having been supplanted by the Brown Rat (Rattus norvegicus) in cooler regions.

Despite its name, it exhibits several colour forms. It is usually black to light brown in colour with a lighter underside. A typical rat will be 15–20 cm (5.9–7.9 in) long with a further 20 cm (7.9 in) of tail. It is nocturnal and omnivorous, with a preference for grains and fruit. Compared to the Brown Rat, it is a poor swimmer, but more agile and a better climber, tending even to flee upwards. In a suitable environment it will breed throughout the year, with a female producing three to six litters of up to ten young. Females may regulate their production of offspring during times when food is scarce, throwing as few as only one litter a year. R. rattus lives for about 2–3 years. Social groups of up to sixty can be formed.

Black Rats (or their ectoparasites) are able to carry a number of pathogens, of which bubonic plague (via the rat flea), typhus, Weil's disease, toxoplasmosis and trichinosis are the most well known.

In the 1920s in England, several colour variations were bred and shown alongside domesticated brown rats. This included an unusual green tinted variety. Today however, very few people keep Black Rats as pets. Most pet rats (or fancy rats) are domesticated brown rats.

In New Zealand, Black Rats have an internationally unusual distribution and importance, in that they are utterly pervasive through native forests, scrublands, and urban parklands. This is typical only of oceanic islands that lack native mammals, especially other rodents. Throughout most of the world, Black Rats are found only in disturbed habitats near people, mainly near the coast. Black Rat are the most frequent predator of small forest birds, seeds, invertebrates, and perhaps lizards in New Zealand forests, and are key ecosystem changers. Controlling their abundance on usefully large areas of the New Zealand mainland is a crucial current challenge for conservation

BALB/c Albino Mice

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BALB/c is an albino, laboratory-bred strain of the House Mouse from which a number of common substrains are derived. Now over 200 generations from their origin in New York in 1920, BALB/c mice are distributed globally, and among the most widely used inbred strains used in animal experimentation.

Knockout Mouse

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A knockout mouse is a genetically engineered mouse in which one or more genes have been turned off through a gene knockout.

Knockout mice are important animal models for studying the role of genes which have been sequenced, but have unknown functions. By causing a specific gene to be inactive in the mouse, and observing any differences from normal behaviour or condition, researchers can infer its probable function.

Mice are currently the most closely related laboratory animal species to humans for which the knockout technique can easily be applied. They are widely used in knockout experiments, especially those investigating genetic questions that relate to human physiology. Gene knockout in rats is much harder and has only been possible since 2003.

The first knockout mouse was created by Mario R. Capecchi, Martin Evans and Oliver Smithies in 1989, for which they were awarded the Nobel Prize for Medicine in 2007. Aspects of the technology for generating Knockout mice, and the mice themselves have been patented in many countries by private companies.

Fancy Mouse Information

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Fancy mice is a term to describe mice that have been selectively bred for pet or for show. They can vary greatly in size, from small pet mice that are approximately 16–18 cm (6.3–7.1 in) long from nose to the tip of the tail, to show mice that measure 30 cm (12 in) nose to tail. Pet mice weigh about 25–40 g (0.88–1.4 oz) but large show mice can weigh up to 100 g (3.5 oz).

Human-directed artificial selection in fancy mice has created a variety of colors and patterns. These include black, chocolate, blue, white, cream, lilac, red, fawn, champagne, cinnamon, golden agouti, silver agouti, silver and dove. All mouse standards fall into one of five categories: Selfs (one solid color all over), Tans (mice of one solid color on the top with a tan belly), Marked either in Even or Broken patterns (spotting of a standard color on a base of white) and a miscellaneous category.

Mice as pets

The first written reference to mice kept as pets occurs in the Erya, the oldest extant Chinese dictionary, from a mention in an 1100 B.C. version. In Europe the breeding of fancy mice became popular through the introduction of Japanese stock in the early 17th century. By 1895 Walter Maxey founded the National Mouse Club in Victorian England, with its first official show held in Lincoln that year. Since that time, mouse clubs have formed worldwide. Shows are held so competitive breeders can display their mice, where they are judged on color and behavior.

Mice are kept as pets in many countries for a number of reasons: Fancy mice are relatively small, inexpensive, clean, and can learn to enjoy regular handling. Female mice are popular with many owners since they tend to cohabitate with other mice better than males. Additionally, the urine of female fancy mice does not contain as strong of an odor as that of the male mice. Bucks can fight with each other, unless they are introduced at a very young age, and they produce urine with a strong, musky smell. Some people, however, prefer the personality and curiosity of male mice. It is a good idea to keep fancy mice in groups of at least two if possible, as mice are sociable animals. However, if a buck and a doe of breeding age are put in the same cage it is possible for them to reproduce at a maximum frequency of once every three weeks.

Caging

Glass aquariums or cages with wire bars and plastic flooring, are the most common types of housing. A span between cage bars of less than 9 mm (0.35 in) prevents young mice from attempting to escape by forcing themselves through the bars, where they may get stuck. This can also help prevent predatory pets such as cats from killing and eating the mice.

Mice are naturally cautious of rats, who may kill and consume them. This rat behavior is known as muricide (Tattersall, Smith and Nowell 1997). The mouse cage is strongly recommended to be cleaned every couple of days to stop it smelling and disinfected properly every 2 weeks to prevent infection and disease. In the wild, mice are able to co-exist with other small rodent species (Moro and Morris 2000). Compared to larger mammals, the mouse's small body makes it difficult to regulate body temperature effectively. Thus, drafts and large fluctuations in temperature can adversely affect the health of mice.

The best products for in cage bedding are aspen wood shavings. There are also paper pulp based products available, as well as a variety of recycled products, though newspaper products may contain inks, dyes and other chemicals from the paper making process. Cedar and pine, even kiln-dried, should not be used as they release aromatic oils that damage the respiratory system and can cause or make worse chronic respiratory disease. Recent research suggests that paper pulp beddings may allow very high concentrations of ammonia to build up in cages, especially those with little ventilation. (Vanderlip 2001, ISBN 978-0-7641-1812-8). Small hide-aways and toys (such as a cardboard tube) are good to have in the cage. Commercial toys are also available. Mice love to run on a wheel, which provides stimulation as well as exercise.

Feeding

Food for fancy mice can range from specially formulated feed mix to kitchen scraps. Carrot, spinach, tomato, and lettuce are usually very inexpensive, although the latter should be applied sparingly as it may not provide a balanced diet. Laboratories keeping mice as experimental subjects almost uniformly use a product called lab block, a scientifically formulated blend originally designed for mice in laboratories. Dry dog food is another good option when lab block is unavailable, as it offers balanced nutrition for a mouse and helps keep their teeth conditioned. In order to keep variety in their diets, mice can also eat oats, oily seeds, clean egg shell, breakfast cereal, and stale bread. Fruit and vegetables are part of a more natural and healthy diet. Mice often chew wood and other hard substances which keeps their teeth from growing too long; salt licks are also an option. As mice and rats have similar diets, some pet mouse owners choose to feed rat food. Although it is common practice to feed pre-mixed diets designed for other rodents, for the longevity of the animal it is best to feed mouse designed diets. Diets for hamsters, for instance, are known to contain higher protein than what is required for mice or rats. Home made diets can be blended using grains, rice, oats, seeds (such as peanut, sunflower, and pumpkin), as well as a number of other ingredients.

House mice primarily feed on plant matter, but they will also accept meat and dairy products. They will drink water but require little of it, relying mainly on the moisture present in their food. If a water source is provided, then a gravity bottle feeder is necessary for maintaining the cleanliness of the water supply. They will eat their feces to acquire nutrients produced by bacteria in their intestines in a behavior they share with rabbits and guinea pigs called Coprophagy. House mice, like other rodents, do not vomit.

A healthy fancy mouse will live on average 18 to 30 months, depending on genetic predisposition. Like most mammals mice are susceptible to mites, ticks and other skin parasites, as well as intestinal parasites. The cage should be cleaned regularly, and preferably treated with anti-mite spray. Mice are particularly sensitive to drafts and may pick up colds and other flu-like conditions. Mice can also over-groom when stressed, leading to skin irritations and fur loss. Older mice are susceptible to tumors, especially breast cancer in females as the mammary tissue is distributed around much of the body. Persistent problems should be referred to a veterinarian, although finding a vet with expertise on treating mice can be difficult.

Like people, fancy mice can become obese if they overeat and do not get enough physical activity. This can lead to them developing life-threatening cardiovascular disorders and diabetes as well as arthritis. Unfortunately overfeeding is common as they require little food. Activity aids such as tubes and wheels are great for ensuring mice get enough exercise, as well as mental stimulation. Mice also love to climb, and a wire cage with horizontal bars is perfect for this. A mouse set loose for exercise should be carefully observed, as they tend to scurry into a hiding spot and can be difficult to retrieve.

As rodents, mice must gnaw to keep their incisors from growing too long. Overgrown teeth can cause occlusion (blockage) of the mouth, which in extreme cases can lead to starvation. Hard foodstuffs, small pieces of wood or specially prepared blocks can suit this purpose, although some mice can grind their teeth together ("bruxing") to keep them short. In rare cases a mouse may not be able to gnaw effectively, either from malformed incisors or jaws, and so their teeth must be trimmed by a vet.

Mice self-groom and do not need to be bathed, unless they have a skin condition which requires special treatment.

Also, like people, mice can get diarrhea. For humans in developed countries with access to clean water, this is usually not a very big deal. For mice though, it is. Once a mouse gets diarrhea, since they are so small, they can very easily lose too much liquid, dehydrate, and die.

Handling

It is not natural for a mouse to allow itself to be handled by a human. However with time, a mouse may acclimate itself to accept human handling. The best way to pick up a mouse is by gently grabbing the base of the tail, and if necessary, supporting the body with the palm of the hand. Retrieving a skittish mouse from its cage can be frustrating; they frighten easily and often try to hide. One method of retrieval is to coax the mouse into a cardboard tube placed in the cage, then pick up the tube. Grabbing a mouse by its body should be avoided, as it can cause stress and possibly damage internal organs.

Although mice are small animals and care must be taken to avoid injury, they are also surprisingly robust and inquisitive. Once out of the cage many enjoy running along their owners' arms, investigating pockets, or just sitting on the owner's lap and grooming. Some mice also tolerate gentle petting. Care must be taken as mice have poor eyesight and may try to lean too far over an edge and fall. Care must especially be taken when being handled by small children as they may be overly rough. Fancy mice very rarely bite, except when they are hurt or very frightened.

Unfortunately mice cannot be house trained and will often defecate and urinate while first being handled, especially if they are nervous. The feces of a healthy mouse consists of a solid pellet a few millimeters long and can be discarded easily. However their urine is quite pungent, particularly with males, and may stain fabric. It is handy to keep sanitary wipes close to the cage.

Breeding

Mice have a rapid reproduction rate; the gestation period is approximately 18 to 21 days. The typical litter size is 4 to 12 young. In some instances, up to twenty young have been born. Males can mate with the female as soon as the litter is born. Female mice should not be bred before 12 weeks or after 8 months; doing so can be very dangerous, and some mice can die while giving birth. Females come into heat around every five days, so the pair can be kept together for up to ten days. Baby mice, pinkies also called pups, are born blind, naked, and deaf. Their eyes are closed and their ears are stuck to the sides of their heads. Mothers may eat any dead or sickly offspring. Pups begin to grow hair at two to four days. Ears open at three to five days, and the pups will start vocalizing. Eyes open at 14 days, and the babies will start exploring the world around them. At three weeks old they look like miniature versions of adult mice. At four to five weeks the pups will be able to breed.

Winter White Russian Dwarf Hamster

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Winter White Russian hamsters are a species of Hamster in the genus Phodopus. They are typically half the size of the better-known Syrian hamster, and therefore called dwarf hamsters along with all Phodopus species. Features include a typically thick dark grey dorsal stripe and furry feet. The tail is so short that it hardly shows when the hamster is sitting. As winter approaches and the days shorten, Winter Whites' dark fur is moulted and replaced with a coat which is almost completely white (hence the name). In the wild, this adaptation helps them evade predators in the snow-covered steppes of winter. They live mainly in Siberia and are also found in Dzungaria, Kazakhstan, Mongolia and Manchuria.

It has been debated whether the Winter White hamster was a sub-species of the Campbell's Dwarf Hamster (Phodopus campbelli) or not; however, recently it was decided that Winter Whites are of their own species, Phodopus sungorus.

The average lifespan of the Winter White Russian Dwarf Hamster is 1½ to 2 years, although they can live longer.

Pet Ownership

Winter Whites are often found on the pet market, in Japan and Europe more so than in North America and indeed are rarely found in pet stores in Canada. Care is similar to that of the Campbell's Dwarf Hamster. Winter White hamsters make good pets for teens or adults, not for younger children. They are usually more friendly to humans than other hamsters, and are less likely to bite. Due to a hamsters poor eyesight the risk of falling or jumping off your hand is high. Compared to other dwarf hamsters, they are also more aggressive and territorial to their cage mates. Winter White hamsters which could have some Campbells ancestry should not be fed food containing sources of monosaccharides because of the risk of developing diabetes mellitus.

Feeding your Winter White properly is very important. They need to have constant access to a properly formulated hamster food. Most major brands provide all the nutrition a little hammy needs, and they should live a very long life on those alone. That said, you can of course supplement with small amounts of healthy treats such as carrots, broccoli, washed dandelion leaves, and most other vegetables that are not over-ripe (but very very small amounts of iceberg lettuce). Occasional ham and chicken (very small amounts) is appreciated as well. Avoid sticky foods, apart from a very small amount of cooled thick porridge (which they love, and is very good for them as an occasional treat) especially in their old age. Uneaten fresh food should be removed daily. Beware that some flowers found in domestic houses and gardens are poisonous to hamsters.

Water is the most important of all, as fresh water is needed regularly. You must make sure to change the water in the bottle at least once a week. If travelling with a hamster, remove the bottle so it doesn't drip, but add a piece of fruit or veg with a high water-content (such as cucumber) to their cage for the journey, and replace their bottle as soon as you arrive.

Boys may fight a bit so it is best to put them together as soon as the cage is ready but not a couple of days after the other. Be careful to give them plenty to do, wooden playgrounds and a working wheel or they could result in playfighting through boredom.

Breeding

In general, dwarf hamsters typically have more of a family structure than the Syrian Hamster. However, this may be a result of a frequent confusion of the Winter Whites and the Campbell's hamsters. Current research suggests biparental care in Campbell's hamsters (Phodopus campbelli) but not in Winter Whites (Phodopus sungorus). Some report that same-sex pairs and larger groups do not always get along well and frequent fighting may occur and be a great distress for them, or even lead to death. Most winter white dwarf hamsters grow to 3 to 4" long. In the winter their fur turns almost completely white. They usually breed between April and September.

Phases

There are several phases (colorations) of Winter White hamsters: their normal (dark brownish-grey colouring) or sapphire (blue-grey colouring). A white pattern called pearl (white with coloured hairs) sometimes exists in either phase, producing the normal pearl or sapphire pearl forms. However, these colours may be difficult to find, and the range of colours is much narrower than in the case of the Campbell's.

Winter White hamsters, also called Siberian hamsters, come from the steppes of Siberia and Kazakhstan and possess an adaptation not seen in Campbells: they can moult into a white winter coat. This camouflages them against the snow and also gives them their name. This moulting is brought on by the amount of day light; if the hamster is kept in an environment with is mediated through the nocturnal secretion of melatonin, the hormone

Campbell's/Winter White Hybrids

Of the five species kept commonly as pets, only the Campbells and Winter Whites are able to interbreed and produce live offspring (hybrids). Hybrids are most often unknowingly produced through incorrect identification of the two similar species of hamsters, and unfortunately the number of hybrids is increasing particularly within pet shops in many countries today where they are often mislabeled as being one or other of the pure species.

Although hybrids make suitable pets, the breeding of hybrids should be avoided as it can cause health and birthing problems, and also the widespread breeding and distribution of hybrids could threaten the existence of both pure species in captivity. Therefore, if intending to breed Russian hamsters, it is important to ensure that both hamsters being bred are a pure form of and of the same species to avoid producing hybrids.

Syrian Hamster

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The Syrian Hamster is a very well-known member of the rodent subfamily Cricetinae, the hamsters. In the wild they are now considered vulnerable, due to farmers poisoning them, but are popular as housepets and scientific research animals. Adults grow from 5 to 7 inches (13 to 18 cm) in length, and will usually have a lifespan of 2 to 3 years. They tend to avoid direct sunlight. Syrian hamsters are nocturnal.

Discovery

Syrian hamsters originate from Syria and were found in 1839 by George Robert Waterhouse who was a British Zoologist. Their natural condition is a dry, hot desert climate. The word 'Hamster' is German for 'to hoard food' as that is what they naturally do during the night.

Hamsters sleep during the day in the deepest part of their burrow to avoid predators. At night there is less chance of them being attacked but even so, they may keep in groups although it is not advised to keep more than one as a pet. Waterhouse's original specimen was a female hamster - he named it Cricetus auratus or the "golden hamster". The skin of the specimen is kept at the British Museum of Natural History.

In 1930, Israel Aharoni, a zoologist and professor at the Hebrew University of Jerusalem, captured a mother hamster and her litter of pups in Aleppo, Syria. The hamsters were bred in Jerusalem as laboratory animals. Some escaped from the cage through a hole in the floor, and most of the wild Syrian hamsters in Israel today are believed to be descended from this litter.

Descendants of the captive hamsters were shipped to Britain in 1931, where they came under the care of the Wellcome Bureau of Scientific Research. They bred well and two more pair were given to the Zoological Society of London in 1932. The descendants of these were passed on to private breeders in 1937. A separate stock of hamsters was exported from Syria to the USA in 1971, but it appears that none of today's North American pets are descended from these (at least in the female line), because recent mitochondrial DNA studies have established that all domestic golden hamsters are descended from one female – probably the one captured in 1930 in Syria. Since the species was named, the genus Cricetus has been subdivided and this species (together with several others) was separated into the genus Mesocricetus, leading to the currently accepted scientific name for the Syrian Hamster of Mesocricetus auratus.

Surviving in the wild

Following Professor Aharoni's collection in 1930, only infrequent sightings and captures were reported in the wild. Finally, to confirm the current existence of the wild Syrian hamster in northern Syria and southern Turkey, two expeditions were carried out during September 1997 and March 1999. The researchers found and mapped 30 burrows. None of the inhabited burrows contained more than one adult. The team caught six females and seven males. One female was pregnant and gave birth to six pups. All these 19 caught Syrian hamsters, together with three wild individuals from the University of Aleppo, were shipped to Germany to form a new breeding stock.

Observations of females in this wild population have revealed that contrary to laboratory populations, activity patterns are crepuscular rather than nocturnal, possibly to avoid nocturnal predators such as owls.

Syrian hamsters in scientific research

Hamsters are widely used in research. For example, according to the Canadian Council for Animal Care, a total of 6,402 hamsters were used for research in 2006 in Canada, making them the fourth most popular rodent after mice (910,540), rats (331,560), and gerbils (37,246).

In captivity, Syrian hamsters follow well defined daily routines of wheel-running activity, which has made them popular subjects in circadian rhythms research. They have a number of fixed action patterns that are readily observed, including scent-marking and body grooming, which is of interest in ethology (the study of animal behaviour).

But by far the greatest use of hamsters is in biomedical research. Among other things, because captive Syrian hamsters are highly inbred (being descended from only a few captured individuals) they have a high incidence of a genetic heart condition causing dilated cardiomyopathy. Several inbred strains of hamsters have been developed as animal models for human forms of dilated cardiomyopathy. The gene responsible for hamster cardiomyopathy in a widely studied inbred hamster strain, BIO14.6, has been identified as being delta-sarcoglycan. Pet hamsters are also potentially prone to cardiomyopathy, which is a not infrequent cause of unexpected sudden death in adolescent or young adult hamsters.

Scientific studies of animal welfare concerning captive Syrian hamsters have shown that they prefer to use running wheels of large diameters, and that they prefer bedding material which allows them to build nests, if nesting material is not already available.

Hamsters as pets

Syrian hamsters are popular as house pets due to their docile, inquisitive nature and small size. However, these animals have some special requirements that must be met in order for them to be happy and healthy. Although some people mistakenly think of them as a pet for young children, the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) recommends hamsters as pets only for persons 7 years or older and the child should be supervised by an adult.

Most hamsters in American and British pet stores are Syrian hamsters. Originally, Syrian hamsters came in just one color — the mixture of brown, black, and gold which gave them their "golden" name — but they have since developed a myriad of color mutations such as cream, white, blonde, banded, tortoiseshell, calico, and sable. Therefore, in pet stores today, Golden Hamster is only used to label the original coloration (also known as agouti). Other-colored short-hairs are banded under the label Fancy Hamster.

The Humane Society of the United States (HSUS) states there is no such thing as a habitat that is too big for a hamster. The hamster will spend the majority of its time in the cage, so it should be as big as possible, safe, comfortable and interesting. Syrian hamsters are energetic and need space to exercise.

Handling

Syrian hamsters are the easiest of all hamsters to handle due to their large size. This is why they are an ideal pet for children and adults alike. They rarely bite. Hamsters have specific points to be handled by, and if handled in the wrong place, it can harm them, or they may think the person petting them is a predator.

You may see your vet handle them by their neck; this is actually a flap of skip called the "scrap". It does not harm them and their mother may pick them up by pulling the pups' scrap. The scrap does not have many nerves inside so the hamster does not feel it, although it should not be used too much as it does stretch their fur, making them feel uncomfortable.

Long-haired or "Angora" hamsters

"Angora" hamsters are commonly known as "Teddy Bear" hamsters. Female Teddy Bear hamsters have short velvety fur, that comes in many different colors. Male teddy bear hamsters usually have much longer fur than the female variety, culminating in a "skirt" of longer fur around their backsides.

Black Bears are a recent off-shoot of teddy bear hamsters (mutation discovered in 1985), the major difference being their black-colored fur. It can be argued that black bears are just black teddy bears rather than their own breed; on the other hand, black bears were originally selectively bred for their larger size and more docile nature as well as their color. However, in current stock, this is no longer the case.

Roborovski hamster

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Roborovskis are the smallest of all hamsters commonly kept as pets. Distinguishing characteristics of the Roborovskis are the white spots where the eyebrows would be, and the lack of the dorsal stripe seen in all other dwarf hamsters. They live, on average, for one and a half to two years. Recently, a mutation has arisen producing a "husky", also known as "white-faced", phase. Breeding these lines with agouti Roborovskis produces a diluted appearance of their natural sandy colour.

Habitat and Diet

Roborovski hamsters live in the wild around the Gobi Desert, throughout Mongolia's desert steppe and parts of northern China. They are particularly suited to the steppe, as they are highly efficient in their use of water (as evidenced by how they may pass particularly concentrated urine), so little vegetation is required. Here, they dig and live in burrows. These are usually steep tunnels and they live between 60 and 200 cm below ground. Roborovski hamsters are surprisingly not obligate herbivores. They will eat vegetables, fruit, and plants, but they will also eat meat and insects. Therefore, they are omnivores.

History of Human Contact

Lt. Vsevolod Roborovski first made note of these hamsters. He discovered them on an expedition in July, 1894, though they were not studied scientifically for the best part of another decade, until Konstantin A. Satunin made observations in 1903. London Zoo imported them into the U.K. in the 1960s, but the first studied in Britain were imported in the 1970s from Moscow Zoo. (None of these hamsters, however, bore offspring.) Continental European countries had more success in breeding Roborovskis, however, and the Roborovskis currently in the U.K. are descendants of a batch imported from the Netherlands in 1990. They were imported in the U.S.A. in 1998, where they remain uncommon, though they are now commonly found in pet shops in several countries. In South Korea, they are almost as common as Winter white Russian dwarf hamsters in pet shops. They are also fairly commonly sold as pets in Israel.

Housing

As they grow to be on average 4.5 cm long—roughly the length of an adult human thumb—Roborovskis can easily squeeze through the bars of a standard hamster cage, so careful consideration needs to be given to housing. The gaps between bars should be approximately 7 mm in width. First-time owners are advised to inquire of pet shop owners or breeders about the suitability of cages. The best cage for a Roborovski hamster is a small, tight-barred open cage, a large plastic cage or a large fish aquarium. Be aware that the cage does not have any holes. Even with a plug covering the hole, hamsters may manage to take the plug out and escape. If the cage happens to have any sort of hole, try to prevent hamsters from escaping by taping the hole (And even the plug over the hole) securely. Also, cotton should never be put in their cage, as there is a high chance they will choke on it. These hamsters prefer to live in a large habitat, where they have room to run. As they are desert animals, they also like to dig and will appreciate sufficient quantities of sawdust or similar materials in their cages.These hamsters also like to have paper towel rolls to run through, but pet owners should make sure that there isn't any paper left on it.Also, if you are a first time owner, be sure not to make any loud noises for it will startle them. And when you first get your robo hamster leave him alone for at LEAST 24 hours to let them get used to the new place. You must be very patient because it may take a max of 5 days. Also along with the no loud noises, don't make any sudden movements, do not feed them alcohol.

Breeding

Roborovski hamsters may reach sexual maturity as early as 5 weeks, but usually do not breed until they are older. Females should not mate until they are closer to 4 months old, though males can breed at 3 months. The gestation period of Roborovski hamsters is usually 20-22 days, but can be up to 30 according to some sources. Litters are usually small, being typically of 4-6 pups, though larger litters have been reported. Pups can be weaned at 21 days; this is also a good age at which to separate male pups from females.These are very good breeding pets.Once the female has given birth, make sure you do not touch the babies until their eyes open or else the baby will have your scent and the mom will think it is not her's and eat the baby.

Mating

Telling female and male Roborovskis apart is not easy. The problem is getting them into a position to view their genitals, as they are not comfortable being handled and are faster than other hamsters. The most common method is to immobilize them by holding them by the scruff of the neck. This should not cause pain if done correctly, as most will 'play dead' and stay very still when in this position. They should be held firmly, though not tightly, for as short a time as possible and not by the ears. However, this technique is not without risk, as an improper grip could cause permanent nerve damage. A much simpler and easier, but not as reliable, method is to put individual hamsters in clear containers and view them from beneath.

The two sexes have different openings: female openings are very close together and may even look like just one opening, while male openings are further apart. Males usually have a visible scent gland near the navel, above the two openings - this looks like a yellowish stain.

Failure to separate Roborovskis is likely to lead to pregnancy at about five weeks.

Phodopus

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Phodopus is a genus of rodent in the vole and hamster family Cricetidae. These species, as well as those in the genus Cricetulus, are known as the "dwarf hamsters", because of their small size.

Species

Genus Phodopus - short-tailed dwarf hamsters
- Phodopus campbelli - Campbell's Dwarf Hamster
- Phodopus roborovskii - Roborovski's (Desert) Dwarf Hamster
- Phodopus sungorus - Winter White Russian (Dzhungarian) Dwarf Hamster

Although more limited in colour than the Syrian Hamster, dwarf hamsters are an alternative to pet owners who enjoy a smaller, more sociable hamster.

The Campbell's Dwarf Hamster and Winter White Russian Dwarf Hamster, which is often referred to in Russian as a "Shwi-shwi", usually live between 1.5 and 2.5 years and reach a length of about 8-10cm. The Chinese Hamster is 10-12cm in length and usually lives to 2.5 to 3 years. The Roborovski Hamster is the smallest at only 4-5cm and lives for 3 to 3.5 years.The Russian Winter White is 8-10cm, as are the Campbell's. Due to the similarity in size and color, they are mistaken as one species.

Mesocricetus

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Mesocricetus is a genus of Old World hamsters, including the Golden hamster or Syrian hamster, the first hamster to be introduced as a domestic pet and still the most popular species for that purpose.

Recent research has shown that, unlike almost all other land mammals studied, two species of this genus (M. auratus and M. brandti) lack the capacity for colour vision (Williams and Jacobs, 2008).

European Hamster

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The European Hamster, also known as the Black-bellied Hamster or Common Hamster, is a species of hamster native to Europe. It is typically found in low-lying farmland with soft loam or loess soils, although it may also inhabit meadows, gardens, or hedges. It is widely considered a farmland pest, and has also been trapped for its fur. The black-bellied hamster is found from Belgium (e.g. Bertem with a thriving population) and Alsace in the west, to Russia in the east, and Romania in the south.

European hamsters are much larger than the Syrian hamsters or dwarf hamsters commonly kept as pets, being around 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) longer than guinea pigs.

In captivity, the European hamster has an unusually long life span, living up to eight years. They are very rarely kept as pets and have been known to attack large dogs if they feel threatened.

In 2007 the European Commission threatened to fine France €17m for failing to protect the last remaining colony of the Black-bellied Hamster in Western Europe.

The European Hamster, or Common Hamster, weighs 4–32 oz. (100–900 g) and can grow to 8–14 inches (20–35 cm) long with a tail of 1–2 inches (2–5 cm). They reach sexual maturity at 43 days old and breed through early April to August. The Common Hamster has a gestation of 18–20 days, gives birth to 4–12 and weans for 3 weeks after birth.

The Common Hamster lives solitarily but in a complex burrow system. It eats seeds, legumes, rooted vegetables, and grasses. There are 24 species of hamsters.

Chinese hamster

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These animals grow to between 7.5 and 9 cm in length and as adults can weigh 50-75 grams. They live two to three years on average. The Chinese hamster is often kept as a pet or (in the past) as a laboratory animal.

A Chinese hamster's body proportions, compared with those of other hamsters, appear "long and thin" and they have (for a hamster) a relatively long tail. Males have a relatively large scrotum, therefore females are generally kept as pets and males are used solely for breeding and research purposes. Chinese hamsters are not related to the social "dwarf" hamsters. The term "dwarf" is often used to refer solely to animals in the genus Phodopus, (the two types of Russian Dwarf Hamsters and Roborovskii Dwarf Hamsters).

The wild colour is grayish brown above with a black stripe down the spine and a whitish belly. This coloration, combined with their lithe build and longer tail, makes them look "mousy" to some eyes and, in fact, they are members of the group called ratlike hamsters. Besides the wild colour, a well-known variation is the white-spotted Chinese hamster, which often is grayish white all over, with only a dark stripe on its back.

They have quiet temperaments and are easily handled; one of their endearing traits is that of clinging to a finger with all four paws, rather like a harvest mouse on a corn stalk. Chinese hamsters can be quite nervous as youngsters but, once they are tame, display an endearing calmness and gentleness of character.

In the past, Chinese hamsters were commonly used laboratory animals, until they were replaced by the common mouse and rat, which are easier to keep and breed; however, quite a few biotech drugs are still being produced by putting the gene for the protein into Chinese hamster ovary cells (CHO cells), which then produce the protein.

Of note, some US states such as California regard the Chinese hamster as a pest, and as a result require a special permit to own, breed or sell. Other states such as New Jersey call it an exotic animal, and require a similar permit, in order to prevent the proliferation of non-indigenous animals.

Colour Mutations

There are only three known colour mutations found in Chinese hamsters, Normal/Wild type, dominant spot and Black Eyed White. Normal and Dominant spot are readily available in the pet trade throughout the United Kingdom (UK) whereas the Black eyed Whites is extremely rare and there are just a handful owned by a couple of hobbyist breeders in the UK.

Campbell's dwarf hamster

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In the steppes of eastern and central Asia, the Campbell's dwarf enjoys digging burrows which may extend up to three feet underground. These burrows are commonly lined with scavenged sheep's wool and dry grasses; the burrows maintain an average temperature of 62 degrees Fahrenheit (16°C). Natural predators include various owls, foxes, falcons, and weasels.

In captivity as pets, the use of heavily scented wood-based cage litter such as cedar can lead to itching, sneezing and even severe allergic reaction and should never be used. Cat litter should never be used since it contains chemicals that will be deadly to hamsters. Paper-based beddings are encouraged, with aspen shavings usually now being regarded as the only safe wood-based choice.

Commercial "fluffy" beddings, usually made of cotton or similar material, have come under some controversy as possibly being damaging to stomach or intestines if swallowed. While paper-based or aspen bedding is used to give the hamster burrowing opportunities while providing odor control, plain toilet tissue is frequently recommended as a nesting material to be used in addition to the "ground cover" of bedding.

Multiple owners find that the use of bathing sand is helpful. Chinchilla bathing sand can be found in most pet stores, although chinchilla dust may cause sneezing and respiratory problems. Campbell's dwarves seem to particularly like cleaning themselves with sand, as the grains remove dirt and oil from the coat.

Cages should have at least 3 square feet of space per hamster, with one additional square foot per extra hamster. Wire, tube, and bin cages can be used. Campbell's hamsters may have difficulty climbing up big tubes due to their small size.

Breeding

Breeding Dwarf Russian Hamsters is much simpler than breeding Syrian Hamsters as they will live together in mixed sex pairs or groups and breed naturally. Pairs or groups are best established at a young age as introducing older hamsters can often result in fighting. Males will naturally mate with the females if kept together and when in season the female will allow the male to mount her. He will thrust a few times before dismounting and washing himself and then often will remount and mate again. The male will usually mate with the female several times. Not all unproven males will get a female pregnant after the first mating and some males may need to mate several times before a successful pregnancy occurs. The actual mating may not always be observed.

The gestation period of Dwarf Russian Hamsters is 18-21 days and if mating was observed then the time of the expected arrival of the litter can be roughly calculated. If mating was not observed then it is often not possible to know tell when the litter is expected. Many females do not appear pregnant until a couple of days before the birth but an increased aggressiveness of the female towards her mate, colony hamsters or humans is often an indication of pregnancy. The female will often banish the male or other hamsters from the nest a couple of days before pregnancy and/or after the birth. Therefore as soon as it is noticed the female is pregnant, it is best to clean the cage.

Females usually give birth during the evening, night or early morning but sometimes give birth during the day. The female is active right up to the moment of birth. Before giving birth to each baby, she tightens her abdominal muscles two or three times, then sits up and crouches over as she gives birth to a single baby within a couple of minutes. A placenta, which looks like a small red blood sac, may be released after the birth of each baby and this is normally eaten by the mother as it is a good source of protein. Babies are born at approximately 10-minute intervals and the mother may be active between each birth. Therefore babies may be born around the cage but the mother will usually collect them all up and place them in the nest when birthing is complete. After the female has given birth, there are often spots of blood on the bedding or around the cage. This is caused by the passing of the placentas and is normal and nothing to be alarmed about. Severe bleeding from the female, though, should be cause for alarm. The pups are born naked, blind and deaf, weighing only 3 grams. If the hamsters are to be dark-eyed, the eyes can be seen under the skin but if they are to be red-eyed, the eyes cannot be seen at birth. They are born with teeth which allow them to suckle. Their skin is transparent and, when they are fed, the milk can be seen in the stomach.

Social Aspects

Unlike other hamster species, especially the Syrian hamsters, the male may play an active role in birth and rearing. He may assist the female in pulling pups from the birth canal, cleaning them, and ensuring the new mother has enough to eat. He may also guard them while the female is away from the nest. Since the pair is likely to mate again quickly, the male should be separated from the female before birth unless more pups are desired and the female is fit enough for a repeat pregnancy.

Like other hamsters, the Campbell's Russian dwarf will eat its young in certain emergency (or perceived emergency) situations, such as a protein deficiency in the mother or a threat toward the young. "Threat" may include anything from a predator (including a re-introduced father) to a habitat that the parent hamster does not believe will provide adequate size, covering, food, or water for its new inhabitants.

Unlike Syrian hamsters, Campbell's dwarfs are sociable and may be kept in colonies. If the hamsters are introduced at a young age, generally younger than eight weeks, they will often happily coexist in same- or mixed-sex groups. (Note that mixed-sex groups should be avoided as hamsters are lively breeders.) Contrary to some claims, the hamsters do not have to be related to live together peacefully. Some Campbell's dwarfs live together for long periods of time, such as over a year, only to eventually and unexpectedly end up fighting to the point of requiring separation. Pet owners should plan for the possibility of providing additional accommodations should this occur.

Campbell's dwarfs are crepuscular, meaning that they are most active at dawn and at dusk.

Diet

Diabetes is becoming a common problem in Campbell's hamsters and is an inherited problem. Unless an individual hamster's ancestry is known to be free of the illness, a Campbell's dwarf should not be fed any sugary foods (including fruit, corn, peas, carrots, yogurt drops, and some mass-manufactured "treats.")

Like all hamsters, Campbell's dwarfs are rodents and therefore must gnaw regularly to keep the incisors from growing into the skin of the mouth and causing health problems. Some pet owners provide dog biscuits to assist with this. Wooden chew toys should be used with care as splinters may injure the hamster. Teeth should be examined regularly to ensure they are not growing unchecked.

In the wild, Campbell's dwarfs consume a variety of grains, seeds, and vegetables. For the pet hamster, commercial seed mixes and food pellets are available and should be augmented with occasional fresh vegetables. Care should be taken in selecting a seed mix that does not include harmful foods, some of which are suitable for other rodents (including other types of hamsters). The following items should be avoided:

kidney beans
onions
garlic
potato tops
raw potatoes
rhubarb
rhubarb leaves
tomato leaves
anything sweet unless diabetes has been ruled out
pork

Other Health Issues

Campbell's hamsters have extremely poor eyesight and even worse depth perception. Cataracts can be common in older hamsters. To compensate for this disability, the hamster has many scent glands, which are located on the face, behind the ears, on the cheek pouches, and on the belly near the rectum and genitals. Many pet owners observe that the hamster may groom itself when in an unfamiliar location. This is done to scent the feet, creating a trail which enables the hamster to find its way back to the burrow. This behavior may also be used to revisit a location with plentiful food. These scent trails may persist for up to eight days.

In addition to diabetes, hamsters can develop tumors (both benign and malignant), as well as glaucoma. It is possible to remove benign and malignant tumors with surgery. Glaucoma is possible to treat with eye drops containing Dorzolamide 2% or Travoprost ophthalmic solution.

The "starter pet" reputation of hamsters may cause some to dismiss the idea of veterinary care. Although many pet hamsters live their entire lives without needing to visit a veterinarian, prospective hamster owners should remember this possible expense when considering the dwarf hamster for a pet.

Colors and Markings

Campbell's hamsters are born with one of four coat types: normal, satin, wavy and rex. The normal coat is short and flat. The satin coat is shiny and gives the appearance of being wet or greasy and the gene enhances the fur's color and gives it lift. The wavy coat is slightly long and wavy; the whiskers are curly when young and, although the coat moults out to a normal coat, the curly whiskers remain through adulthood. The rex coat is a soft, short coat which is curled so as to be "lifted" from the body and the whiskers are curly. The rex coat is often sparse and remains curled even in adult hamsters.

Campbell's dwarfs are available in six basic colors plus many variations thereof. All are marked by a dark stripe down their back, the colour of which varies depending on the shade of their fur.

Basic colors include:

agouti (the normal grey brown wild color with white belly and black eyes)
argente (cinnamon or sandy with white belly and red eyes)
black eyed argente (dull brownish orange with white belly and black eyes)
albino (white with red eyes)
opal (blue grey with white belly and black eyes)
black (black all over with black eyes)

Marking types include:

mottled (irregular white patches or spots - also called banded, spotted, or collared, if the mottling is confined to the neck)
ruby-eyed mottled (mottled with ruby eyes which usually appear black)
platinum (white hairs mingled in the coat ranging from a few to almost total coverage - sometimes incorrectly called pearl)

Not all white hamsters with red/pink eyes are albino. Some are so heavily mottled or tinged with platinum that they will appear to be white. Hamsters carrying the black gene (almost half of all variations) are prone to "silvering"; in extreme cases the eventual result is an almost white hamster.

When two ruby-eyed mottled hamsters are bred, approximately 25% of the litter are born lacking teeth and eyes; these pups, called "eyeless toothless," generally do not live past weaning. Whether a mottled hamster has ruby eyes (which often appear black) can be difficult to determine; pointing a flashlight at the hamster in the dark may reveal the hint of ruby. Furthermore, some mottling may be too small to be noticed, or the mottling may be misidentified as platinum markings, and in these cases two ruby-eyed mottleds may accidentally be bred, resulting in the ill-fated pups.

Combining the different mutations has produced new colors, including blue, blue fawn, lilac fawn, beige, chocolate, champagne, dove, and others. Contrary to some claims, the different colors and markings of hamsters do not indicate personality differences. Most breeders attempt to predict personality by closely examining the bloodline and any neurological diseases the hamster's ancestors displayed.

Winter White/Campbell's Dwarf Hybrids

Of the five species of hamsters usually kept as pets, only the Winter White and Campbell's dwarfs are able to interbreed and produce live offspring (hybrids). Hybrids are most often unknowingly produced through incorrect identification of the two similar species of hamsters, such as mislabeling at a pet store.

Unfortunately, the number of hybrids is increasing, leading to a rise in health problems (such as the emergence of diabetes in the Winter White and glaucoma in the Campbell's Russian) and a decrease of pure species in captivity. Breeding of hybrids is discouraged, and the amount of accidental hybrid breeding and its repercussions underscores the cautions of casual breeding already expressed above.

Skinny pig

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The Skinny is an almost hairless breed of Guinea pig. Skinny pigs typically have hair on their muzzles, feet and legs, but are hairless over the remainder of their bodies. Some have a thin covering of fuzzy hair on their backs as well. A healthy Skinny has skin that is mostly smooth with some wrinkling around the legs and neck, the body is full with no appearance of spine or ribs. Skinnies can come in a variety of colours and patterns, such as Dutch, Tortoiseshell, Himalayan and many others. "Skinny" is not a synonym for all hairless guinea pigs, but refers to this specific breed. The modern Skinny pig breed originated with a cross between haired guinea pigs and a hairless lab strain. The hairless strain that it is most likely related to was a spontaneous genetic mutation that was first identified at Montreal's Institute Armand Frappier in 1978, in a colony of Hartley lab guinea pigs. In 1982 they were sent to Charles River Laboratories to be bred for laboratory use and are commonly used in dermatology studies today. They are an outbred strain that has an intact thymus and normal immune system.

Unique traits

Hairless guinea pigs are not significantly physiologically different than regular haired guinea pigs, although they may need to eat slightly more to maintain body heat. The optimal temperature range for a hairless guinea pig is between 75 - 79°F (24 - 26°C), which is slightly higher than the optimal temperature range for the haired guinea pig.

Their sensitive skin has very much the same appearance as human skin, but has the same needs as normal guinea pig skin. Exposed skin is vulnerable to injuries and fungal infections unless precautions are taken. Skinnies are housed indoors and they are usually kept with nesting materials such as a blanket or cloth bag for heat conservation. The breeding protocol for Skinnies requires out crossing to haired carriers at least every other generation. This is an important step in the breeding process, which makes them a poor choice for novice breeders. Skinnies are born nearly hairless and develop more hair as they mature, they can have varying degrees of hairlessness at different life stages. Haired Skinny carriers remain haired their entire life but carry the hairless gene. Even though the Skinny is a relatively new breed among pet owners and cavy fanciers, it is gaining popularity in Canada, Europe, Scandinavia and Russia as well as in the United States where it was introduced in the late 1990s.

Guinea pig breed

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There are many breeds of Guinea pig which have been developed since its domestication ca. 5000 BC. Breeds vary widely in appearance and purpose, ranging from show breeds with long, flowing hair to those in use as model organisms by science. From ca. 1200 AD to the Spanish conquest of the Inca Empire in 1532, selective breeding by indigenous South American peoples resulted in many varieties of domestic guinea pigs, which form the basis for some of the modern domestic breeds. Early Andean breeds were primarily kept as agricultural stock for food, and efforts at improving the Guinea pig as a food source continue to the modern era.

With the export of Guinea pigs to Europe in the 15th century, the goal in breeding shifted to focus on the development of appealing pets. To this end, various competitive breeding organizations were founded by fanciers. The American Cavy Breeders Association, an adjunct to the American Rabbit Breeders Association, is the governing body in the United States and Canada. The British Cavy Council governs cavy clubs in the United Kingdom. Similar organizations exist in Australia (Australian National Cavy Council) and New Zealand (New Zealand Cavy Club). Each club publishes its own Standard of Perfection and determines which breeds are eligible for showing. New breeds continue to emerge in the 21st century.

Common breeds

Though there many breeds of Guinea pig, only a few breeds are commonly found off the show table as pets. Most Guinea pigs found as pets were either found undesirable by breeders or were bred to be good companions regardless of how well they meet the breed standard of perfection. The short hair, Abyssinian, Peruvian and Sheltie (aka Silkie) breeds are those most frequently seen as pets, and the former three are the core breeds in the history of the competitive showing of Guinea pigs. In addition to their standard form, nearly all breeds come in a Satin variant. Satins, due to their hollow hair shafts, possess coats of a special gloss and shine. However, there is growing evidence that the genes responsible for the Satin coat also can cause severe bone problems, including Osteodystrophy and Paget's disease.

Short haired

The short coated cavy - often called the American or English- has consistently short, glossy hair without a part. This breed of cavy most resembles the Guinea pig's relatives and ancestors in the Cavia genus.

In shows, short-haired guinea pigs are shown by their color variety - self, dalmatian, Himalayan, etc. This designation does not have 'American' or 'English' appended to it, but applies only to short-haired animals.

Abyssinian

The Abyssinian breed of Guinea pig is known for its short and long, rough coat that has cowlicked rosettes of hair. The derivation of the breed's name is unknown, but does not connotate an origin in the geographical region of Abyssinia (present day Ethiopia). The ideal Abyssinian has 10 rosettes, one on each shoulder, four across the back, one on each of the animal's hips, and two on the rump. Some judging bodies, such as the ANCC, consider shoulder rosettes optional but desired in show cavies. A harsh-textured coat that stands on end to form ridges is desired.

Peruvian

The Peruvian is the progenitor of all modern long haired breeds, being a Guinea pig with hair that grows long continuously all over its body, sometimes to an excess of 20 inches (approx. 50 centimeters). Accordingly, this ornate feature can make caring for this breed more difficult for both owners and breeders; most show Peruvians have their hair folded up in wraps to protect it and keep it clean. Long haired Guinea pigs have both a top and an undercoat, the latter of which will generally only grow to 6-7 inches (15-17 cm.)Though most Peruvians kept as pets are regularly trimmed for ease of keeping, those in show coat should have hair that fans out to make the animal's front and rear completely indistinguishable. The coat should be of an even length all over, and have a central part on the spine. Peruvians of show standard are required to have two rosettes on either side of the rump, which creates the desired height and density.

Silkie or Sheltie

A Silkie has long hair that flows back over its body and never forward over the face (as in the Peruvian). When viewed from above it forms a teardrop shape and should never have a central part. In contrast to the Peruvian, where the coat is desired to fall in an even curtain all around the body, the Sheltie is generally accepted to have a somewhat longer sweep of hair in the rear.

Rex

A Rex guinea pig has short, fuzzy hair that stands on end all over the body. The hair should be uniform all over, without rosettes and no more than 1⁄2 inch (1 1⁄4 cm) in length, preferably shorter. The Rex breed sometimes looks similar to the Teddy, but the two breeds are genetically distinct--breeding a Rex to a Teddy will not result in Rex or Teddies, but rather American cavies.

Teddy

A Teddy guinea pig has a very dense and fuzzy coat, with hairs that stand up. The fur typically grows to a moderate length and generally makes this breed resemble a soft toy more than any other. Another unique feature of the Teddies is the relatively long hair coating their bellies, in contrast to other breeds, whose bellies are nearly bare. Young Teddies sometimes look similar to the Rex, but the Rex's fur is shorter and usually much more bristled. There are two kinds of Teddy: The US Teddy and the CH Teddy, otherwise known as the Swiss Teddy. The two variations appear to be both genetically and visually different. The teddy needs people to not brush them if you have a teddy do not brush or wash them. it will make the teddy not showob so do not.

Texel

A Texel Guinea pig is like a Silkie, but with curls. Originating from England, it was officially recognized as a breed by the ACBA in 1998. The curls should ideally be tightly wound corkscrew curls and should cover the entire body, including the stomach. Unlike a Sheltie, a central part is allowed. The curls are very beautiful but must be taken care of. Brush the curls lightly to keep the Texel groomed. With each grooming the guinea pig will get more and more use to the activity and become much more relaxed. At first it might be difficult, but as the guinea pig is groomed more and happier and more comfortable it will become.

Relatively rare or emerging breeds

Alpaca

A curly coated Peruvian. Hair grows over face like a Peruvian. Most are first generation hybrids of Peruvians and other breeds.

Crested

The Crested is similar to the American, but has one rosette on the top of the head. According to ACBA standards, the Crest must be white, with no other white hair present on the animal.

The ANCC (Australian National Cavy Club) recognizes 2 main groups of crested but another group is also present, the White crested. The American Crested and the English Crested. The American Crested must have a crest colour that is in contrast to the body colour. Usually this is white, but it could be any other colour. These are only recognized in the self colour. English Cresteds have a crest the same colour as the body. These are recognized in every colour and variety, with the exclusion of the "coated" breeds (longhairs and coarse coats). The most popular being breeds such as the English Crested Pink Eyed White and the English Crested Black. The white crested has a white crest on the top of the forehead and a self colour everywhere else. White crested guinea pigs must have a white crest, with any coat that does not have white hairs present. So dutch, roans, ect are not included.

Coronet

A Coronet cavy has longer hair, like the Silkie, along with a crest like a Crested.

English Merino

A curly-coated Coronet with a crest in between the ears on the centre of the head. To keep its' fur in tip top shape, one needs to comb an English Merino's fur (preferably) once a day. Sawdust bedding is not a good option for this guinea pig, along with the Texel, Alpacca, or other curly haired breeds, it gets caught in their fur causing it to tangle. A better option would be to have straw bedding.

Hairless breeds

A very few varieties of hairless Guinea pig exist, the most prevalent breed being the Skinny pig. Skinnies were developed from a hairless lab strain crossed with Teddies and other haired breeds. They have curly Teddy hair on their noses, feet and legs. Skinnies are born nearly hairless. Another well-known hairless guinea pig is the Baldwin. The Baldwin was a spontaneous mutation from White Crested cavies belonging to a cavy fancier who was breeding them for show. Baldwins are born with a full coat which falls out until they are bald. The Baldwin is characterized by numerous skin wrinkles and a very small amount of hair just on the feet only. The Skinny and the Baldwin are two separate breeds and the two different hairless genes are not compatible. Hairless breeds require special accommodation, as they need to be kept warm and may require extra food. Currently a few Scandinavian bodies admits hairless breeds on to the show table, and consequently a standard of perfection exist.

Ridgeback

Like the Skinny pig and Baldwin, the Ridgeback is not recognized by any international show organization. Genetically, it is similar to an Abyssinian, however, it has few rosettes, and appears to be smooth coated other than a ridge of hair running up the back.

Abbyruvian or Sheba Mini Yaks

Abbyruvian or sheba mini yaks is not a recognized breed for ARBA, but a nickname for Abyssinian cavies that are partially long-haired. Genetically, these animals have one copy of the long-hair allele and one copy of the short-hair allele. Physically, they look like a cross between an Abyssinian and a Peruvian. They are basically a semi-long haired breed but ideally are longhaired rosetted cavies. The hair typically curls back in such a fashion as to be called a "rooster tail". The same mix of long and short hairs can occur on a smooth-coated cavy, but there is no nickname for it. They are also known as the "Bad Hair Day" Cavy and but they are adored by many because of their lively and cheerful attitude. They are a very friendly breed.

Colors

Cavies come in many colors, but only three different colors can appear on each cavy, one from the black series, one from the red series, and/or white. The black series includes black, chocolate, lilac, and beige. The red series includes red, orange, buff, cream, and white.

Agouti colored cavies have a hair tip and root that are different colors, much like someone whose roots are showing from dyeing their hair. The root contains whatever color from the black series the pig has, and the tip has whichever color from the red series the pig has. Agouti guinea pigs have bellies the same color as the tips of their hair.
- Golden Agouti has a red tip and black root.
- Silver Agouti has a white tip and black (or grayish) root.
- There are also many dilute agouti variations with different combinations of the black series and red series.
"Solid" colored cavies are much like Agoutis, but the belly is ticked as well. Solid and Agouti cavies can have patches of solid red series, but all black series hairs wind up ticked.
"Self" cavies have just one color of hair--black, white, cream, etc.
Broken color cavies have two or three colors of hair in any combination not otherwise recognized.
Tortoiseshell cavies have patches of red and black. For show breeders, the ideal is to have an evenly checkered animal with clear, straight dividing lines between the two colors.
- Tortoiseshell and white cavies have even patches of red, black, and white.
Brindle cavies have black series and red series hairs evenly mixed throughout their coats. However, these hairs are not ticked.
- Magpie is a particular form of brindle with black for the black series and white for the red series. Magpie can be easily confused with roan, although in magpie the white hairs can appear anywhere, while roan cavies rarely have any white on their head or rear.
Dutch cavies have bands of color, generally on the cheek area and the rear, with bands of white in-between. The pattern is essentially the same as the Dutch pattern in rabbits.
Roan and Dalmatian cavies are genetically the same, but look somewhat different. Roans have white hairs evenly mixed throughout their other hairs on back and sides, while Dalmatians have spots of color on a white back and sides. Many are intermediate between the two patterns, with some spots and some mixed-in hairs. The white hairs caused by roan and dalmatian patterns are genetically different from normal white, or the white in the red series, or the white of the Himalayan pattern. Therefore, an animal could have white roan hairs mixed in with white hairs from ordinary white spotting, covering up the telltale roan markings. This is a problem because two guinea pigs who are both roan and/or dalmatian could produce deformed offspring. Hence, no guinea pig with an unknown genetic background and any white hair should be bred.
Himalayan cavies are acromelanic, just like the Siamese cat. Their noses, ears, and feet are a black series color. If a cavy with Himalayan genes has a genotype that would give them red series, or white, on their nose, ears, or feet, those hairs will be white. This could result in an entirely white animal, or one that is white with black ears, or a half-black nose. Himalayan guinea pigs are always born pure white from the heat of the mother's body, and any colored hairs develop slowly.

Breeding two roan colored guinea pigs may result in a 'lethal' gene being passed onto the offspring. A 'lethal' gene can cause many deformaties including; deafness, blindness, crooked teeth, loss of smell and many more.

Greater Guinea Pig

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The Greater Guinea Pig, is a guinea pig species from South America. It is found in Argentina, Brazil and Uruguay.

Cavia

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Cavia is a genus in the Caviinae subfamily that contains the rodents commonly known as guinea pigs. The most well-known species in this genus is the domestic guinea pig, Cavia porcellus, an important meat animal in South America and a common household pet in the West.

Taxonomic controversy

Cavia are classified in order Rodentia, although there is a minority belief in the scientific community that evidence from mitochondrial DNA and proteins indicates that the Hystricognathi may belong to a different evolutionary offshoot, and therefore a different order. If so, this would be an example of convergent evolution. Other scientists are critical of this hypothesis.

Pale Gerbil

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The pallid gerbils, usually shortened to pallid by enthusiasts, is recommended as a good second species for those with experience of keeping Mongolian gerbils. This is a shortened version of an article written for the GerbilsShowsUK website.

Pallid gerbils are a species of gerbil from North Africa, they are slightly smaller than the Mongolian gerbil (the well known pet shop gerbil), with a slender appearance, slightly protruding eyes, and have a friendly disposition and are easy to care for. They have a light orange upper coat and white belly, white around the eyes, long feet and a tail longer than the body. The tail is barely furred and the ears are naked. The eyes are dark and stand out from the head, much larger in proportion to the head than Mongolians.

Lifespan

2-4 years when proper conditions are met(similar to Mongolian gerbils).

Care

A tank, glass or plastic, is the best home for Pallids. For bedding they can be kept on the same bedding as Mongolian gerbils, usually wood based products like woodshavings, hemp etc. They must have regular access to sand for bathing - otherwise they will care for themself. They do not need any special care as far as their living condition are properly supervised.

Feeding

A standard gerbil mix with added protein is needed, clean drinking water should be available at all times. The water should be changed approximately three - four times in week. Depending on the size of the rations, Pallid should be fed every day - just like ordinary Gerbils.

Handling

Pallids rarely keep still when being handled. They have excellent balance and will be happiest if allowed to climb over the handler. Do be careful as falls can cause severe, even fatal, injury. Pallids should be scooped up from underneath, by placing hands on either side and under the animal.

Behaviour

Pallids are social animals and happiest in groups or pairs. Grooming, sleeping together, and playing together are all essential to pallid welfare. So is squabbling. Pallids will chase and box each other, especially after meals. Although especially males are known to get into fights more often than females. Sometimes they should be separated, otherwise their fight may have fatal outcome.

Health

Pallids do react very badly to any form of injections, and can quickly go into shock or die as a result. Not all vets are aware of this, so it is often wise to point this out on any vet visits.

Sand Rat

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This species usually lives in sandy deserts, but may also be found in rocky terrain or saline-marsh areas. It lives in burrows which are often located under the bushes in which the rats forage, such as salt bushes of the Chenopodiaceae family.

The Fat Sand Rat is diurnal, but its activity on the surface depends on the ambient temperature.

Medical significance

Sand Rats can easily acquire diabetes mellitus when they are fed a normal rodent diet of grains. Therefore they have been used as an animal model for studies on diabetes.

The presence of Sand Rats in North Africa and the Middle East is of healthcare importance, as this species can harbor the parasite which causes leishmaniasis in humans.

These animals have been studied extensively for their remarkably efficient kidneys: they can produce very concentrated urine which enables them to eat halophyte plants and survive extreme heat and lack of water in their desert habitat

Meriones unguiculatus

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The species Meriones unguiculatus came originally from Mongolia. Its habitat in Mongolia is mainly semi-deserts and steppes. Soil on the steppes is sandy and is covered with grasses, herbs, and shrubs. The steppes have cool, dry winters and hot summers. The temperature can get up to 50 degrees Celsius (122 degrees Fahrenheit), but the average temperature for most of the year is around 20 °C (68 °F).

In the wild these gerbils live in groups generally consisting of one parental pair and the last few litters. Only the dominant female and male produce pups. One group of gerbils generally ranges over 325 to 1550 square meters (0.08 to 0.38 acre).

A group lives in a central burrow with 10-20 exits. Some deeper burrows with only 1-3 exits in their territory may exist. These deeper burrows are used to escape from predators when they are too far from the central burrow.

History

The first known mention of gerbils came in 1866, by Father Armand David, who sent "yellow rats" to the Museum of Natural History (Musée d'Histoire Naturelle) in Paris, from northern China. They were named Meriones unguiculatus by the scientist Milne-Edwards in 1867. This Latin name means "clawed warrior" in English, partly from the Greek warrior Meriones in Homer's Iliad.

Gerbils only became popular pets after 1954, when twenty breeding pairs of gerbils were brought to the United States from eastern Mongolia for scientific testing. Almost all pet gerbils today are descended from these forty. Gerbils were brought to the United Kingdom in 1964 from the United States.

Gerbils as Pets

Gerbils are rather popular pets, due to their gentle-towards-humans temperament and hardy nature.

Because the Mongolian Gerbil is a very social creature, it is recommended that they be kept in pairs in captivity; one reason being that multiple gerbils tend to groom each other, or engage in other social activities. Therefore, gerbils generally lead poorer lives without a companion.

When selecting a gerbil as a pet, it is important to select a young and healthy-looking animal. Important criteria include having clear eyes, ears and nostrils, a shiny coat, and a robust body shape. Gerbils that display their inquisitive nature are a better choice than ones that prefer hanging back in a corner.

When choosing your pets, it is obviously important to know their genders. This can be difficult, because it's often quite tricky trying to determine a gerbil's sex.

Typically, a male-male or female-female pairing of gerbils from the same litter is the best choice. Placing a male and a female in an enclosure will lead to an inevitable population boom, one that may tax the abilities of even experienced owners.

Also, females are somewhat more competitive with each other than males, and skirmishes may occur from time to time if two females are placed together. Usually however, the two will live together contentedly, and rarely are disputes serious enough to warrant separation of the pair.

Males placed together tend to get along quite well, and the aforementioned skirmishes are rarer between them.

Please remember that gerbils born into the same litter are your best bet when selecting a pair. Attempting to introduce gerbils from different litters may be successful when done at a very early age. After reaching maturity however, it can be extremely difficult to get a gerbil to accept a new companion, even if they are siblings.

Lastly, while a pair of gerbils is recommended, larger numbers can be housed together. However, enclosure size is a big factor, and trying to place three females, regardless of whether they are littermates, can be dangerous, as disputes often break out over which of the three is the dominant female.

When housing all males, three will usually live together without much or any hostility between them.

There are a number of options available when selecting an enclosure for gerbils. The most commonly seen are wire cages, vivariums, or tube-based habitats such as Habitrail. The best choice is usually a glass or acrylic aquarium tank, which allows a thick layer of substrate to be placed. This allows gerbils to burrow as they would naturally. An aquarium tank is also sturdy and safe, and helps alleviate problems such as drafts. A plastic enclosure will be easily chewed out of, and provides little ventilation.

A 10 gallon aquarium tank is the minimum suitable size tank for a pair of gerbils to live in throughout their lives, although 15 gallons and up sizes are preferable.

Once an enclosure has been selected, the next step is to choose a substrate, or “bedding”. Choices include commercially available small animal substrate, peat, kiln dried pine or Aspen wood shavings. Pine that is not kiln dried and cedar shavings must be avoided in the USA, since pine and cedar wood contain phenols that can cause respiratory problems in small animals. Gerbils will also appreciate a sand bath from time to time to keep their coats clean. Chinchilla sand is an option although aragonite sand is the best. Chinchilla dust is made for penetrating the chinchilla's thick fur and will just clog the lungs of gerbils and their owners from excessive inhalation! Sand bathing is very enjoyable for gerbils and it absorbs the greases and oils in the coats, keeping their fur clean.

Although the Mongolian Gerbil is a desert animal, they require fresh water at all times. Because of the gerbil’s active nature, it would be risky to place a dish or bowl of water in an enclosure, because it would likely be knocked over or filled with bedding very quickly. Instead, use an easily accessible water bottle. Bottles are custom made fit into many types of habitats.

Food can be given through a relatively inexpensive dry food mix, many of which are easily found at grocery and pet stores, often labeled as “Hamster and Gerbil” food. Occasionally supplementing the dry food with a select few types of fresh vegetables, like carrots, is a good idea. However, some gerbils are finicky, and will simply ignore the offerings. When fresh vegetables or fruits are provided, be sure to clean out any uneaten portions after an hour or two. Also, some fresh produce such as cucumber should never be offered because of the risk of providing too much water for a gerbil's system to handle, resulting in diarrhea-like droppings.

Gerbil teeth, like the teeth of any rodent, grow constantly, so it is highly important to provide things for them to gnaw on. This wears the teeth down, keeping their growth in check. Wooden “toys” are offered at many pet stores for this purpose. There are many other house-hold things to offer gerbils too, such as the tube from a roll of paper towels, tissue boxes, etc. Please make sure that the tubes do not have an excessive amount of glue, because this may potentially harm a gerbil's digestive tract. Do not feel tempted to offer plastic toys in their tank as ingestion can and will kill the rodent slowly and painfully, however supervised playtimes with these objects should be safe.

Meriones (genus)

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Adult Meriones range in size from 9 to 18 cm (head and body) with a tail that is equal to or slightly longer than the rest of the animal (Corbet and Hill, 1992; Nowak, 1999). Weight varies widely by species but is generally between 30-100 grams.

They are more rat-like in appearance than many other gerbillines, but are still capable of leaping. They have strong front claws which are used to dig their burrows.

Natural history

They construct burrows that aid in food storage, temperature regulation and water retention. The burrows of some species are rather simple, but others can be quite complex. Meriones crassus adults have been reported to have burrows that have a combined length of over 30 meters and have 18 entrances (Nowak, 1999). Food is stored in chambers of the burrows. As with other arid adapted rodents, stored food has the capacity to reabsorb moisture given off by the animal during respiration. Jirds can go their entire lives without drinking, relying instead on water generated during metabolism. These rodents feed on vegetable matter, roots, seeds, fruit, and insects.

Members of the genus range from being social to rather solitary. Even in solitary species, home ranges often overlap. Females give birth to 1-12 young after a gestation period of about 20-30 days (Nowak, 1999). Sexual maturity is reached after about 9-15 weeks. Longevity in the wild is usually less than 6 months, but the record for a captive animal is over 5 years (Nowak, 1999).

Indian Desert Jird

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The Indian Desert Jird is a species of Jird found mainly in the Thar desert in India. Jirds are closely related to Gerbils.

Distribution

The Indian Desert Jird is found in southeastern Iran and Pakistan to northwestern India. In India they can be found in Rajasthan and Gujarat.

Description

The Indian Jird has a grey-brown coat with yellowish-grey belly. It is approximately 12 to 14 cm long and has a tail 10 to 15 cm long. The distinguishing characteristics include short ears, long black claws and orange incisors.

Habitat

Jirds inhabit desert and barren areas preferring firm soil. They are not to be found in pure sand dunes or rocky outcrops.

Habits

The jirds are gregarious and their burrows are seen close by. Each jird will have at least two or more entrances to his burrow complex. Often the entrance is in the shade of a tree or near the trunk of bushes. They feed on seeds, roots, nuts, grasses and insects.

Difference between 'jirds' and 'gerbils'

Jirds are closely related to gerbils but are differentiated by the absence of long hind feet and the characteristic erect posture of a gerbil. The tail is generally shorter than the head and body in a jird. It also has much shorter ears. In addition, the Indian Desert Jird is diurnal, in comparison to the three common gerbil species found in India which are nocturnal.

Hairy-Footed Gerbil

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The Hairy-footed Gerbil is a species of rodent in the Muridae family. It is found in Angola, Botswana, Mozambique, Namibia, South Africa, and Zimbabwe. Its natural habitats are dry savanna, temperate shrubland, hot deserts, sandy shores, and urban areas.

Gerbillus

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Gerbillus is a genus that contains most common gerbils. Traditionally the genera Dipodillus and Microdillus have been included in this genus by some authorities.

Fat-tailed Gerbil

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The Fat-tailed gerbil is a medium sized gerbil. Its body length is about 10 cm (4”), with a tail length of about 5 cm (2”). This gerbil has a thick, soft, fluffy coat. The hair at the back and the head is yellow-coloured, with a dark grey basis and a small black tip. The belly is clear white. Fat-tailed gerbils weigh about 40 grams. Their body is round and somewhat flattened. They have no clear neck and a very sharp face, with large oval-shaped black eyes. The ears of this species are low positioned, which gives this species a fox-like head. The legs are comparatively short for a gerbil. They look similar to a hamster, but unlike a hamster they have a pointed snout and a fat, almost bald, club-shaped tail from which they gets their common name of 'fat-tailed gerbil'. The fat-tailed gerbil stores fat and water in its tail, in the same way that the camel stores fat in its hump. Therefore, a healthy fat-tailed gerbil should have a nicely rounded tail. It is this tail which makes them easy to distinguish from all other gerbil species.

Lifespan

Captive specimens of the fat-tailed gerbil have a life span of between 5 and 8 years. In the wild, they are unlikely to reach this age.

Origin

French zoologist, Fernand Lataste, discovered Pachyuromys duprasi in 1880 in Laghouat, Algeria. He was the first to describe the animal in detail in Le Naturaliste.

Fat-tailed gerbils are originally found in the Northern Sahara (North-western Egypt, Libya, Tunisia, and Algeria). There they live in sparsely vegetated sand sheets or rocky deserts. In the wild, fat-tailed gerbils live in simple burrows about one meter deep, in hard sandy soil. They may also occupy burrows of other species'.

Food

The Fat-tailed gerbils are, as their pointed snout would suggest, mostly insectivorous in the wild, but will eat also a variety of plants. In captivity, they are kept on normal basic rodent mix, used to feed Mongolian gerbils or hamsters. They are particularly fond of mealworms, crickets, moths, and almost any other insect, even beetles. In addition, they can also be given some vegetables and fruit, like carrots, cauliflower, chicory, and apples. Because fat-tailed gerbils originated in dry areas and are not used to food which has high moisture content, they can get diarrhoea after eating too much fruit and vegetable matter. Branches and twigs are rich in vitamins and very suitable besides their basic food, especially in winter. It is also good for their teeth, because they keep growing their whole life and by gnawing they keep their incisors at the right length. Hay is also very good for fat-tailed gerbils, because of its high fibre content.

Housing

The best way to keep fat-tailed gerbils is in a tank (aquarium / terrarium). It should measure at least 60x40 cm (24” x 16”) for 2-4 gerbils. Fat-tailed gerbils are fond of digging, so it is important to provide them with a thick layer of bedding. Wood shavings can be used, but not pine or redcedar wood shavings; many rodents can react allergically to them, and may develop respiratory problems. Aspen wood shavings are considered to be the best. They also need to take a sand bath regularly to prevent their fur from becoming greasy. Fat-tailed gerbils will make a nest; this may be underground in their burrow, on the surface in the bedding, or in a nesting box. Fat-tailed gerbils can be kept occupied by giving them gerbil toys, for example an exercise wheel. Keeping a breeding pair can be somewhat difficult. It is possible to keep fat-tailed gerbils singly, like Syrian hamsters.

Behaviour

Fat-tailed gerbils are sociable animals, and sometimes live in colonies, but can also live solitary (alone). In the wild fat-tailed gerbils become active at dusk. In captivity fat-tailed gerbils seem to be diurnal. This gerbil species is active for some very short periods in between longer periods of sleep, and they are very deep sleepers. They sometimes go into a state similar to hibernation, but not true hibernation. Fat-tailed gerbils are very docile and almost never bite. People say even that wild fat-tailed gerbils that are trapped can even be handled right away without being bitten. They seem to lack the curiosity of the Mongolian gerbil, and behave more like a Syrian hamster than a gerbil. Fat-tailed gerbils spend a lot of time grooming their fur and washing their face. They like to dig a lot and take sand baths. They also enjoy running on exercise wheels.

When they fight,they shriek loudly and bite each other's tails. The mating ritual of the fat-tailed gerbil may also be confused with fighting.

Male fat-tailed gerbils, like most other rodents, have scent glands on their stomach and engage in marking their territory by stretching out and rubbing their bellies on the ground and furnishings. Their scent markings don’t seem to be discernible to people and there is no noticeable odour from their cage like with hamsters or mice.

Breeding

Fat-tailed gerbils are sexually mature when they are 2 months old, and in captivity they reproduce the whole year round. The gestation period of the fat-tailed gerbil is 19 days. Their average litter size is 3 to 6, and the pups are weaned at 3-4 weeks.

Breeding fat-tailed gerbils in captivity can be hard, as the females can be very aggressive when they are pregnant or nursing pups. They will attack the male, and even kill her mate if he is not housed separately after mating has taken place. The chance of a female housed with a male becoming pregnant is much less than it is with Mongolian gerbils. A proven method to breed fat-tailed gerbils it putting a male and a female together in a rather small tank with nothing else in it than some bedding material. No nesting box, nothing to play with, no food dish. This way there is really nothing the animals can fight about. They can’t become territorial because of the small space and because there are no points to use as demarcation. With this method it is needed to keep the male and female together for one week and then separate them and put them in a nice big tank with all kind of furnishings, most likely the female is already pregnant.

The mating ritual of the fat-tailed gerbil is rather unusual. Both male and female stand on their hind legs and wrestle, making squeaking noise. They never seem to actually bite each other, but they get rather rowdy. If the female is not receptive and the male doesn’t give up, the female will turn and kick bedding at the male. The female will make a nest and get a little nippy when she will be ready to have her litter. They are good mothers. It is the best to remove the male, not because a problem with the male, but because the female gets stressed and may attack the male.

After the litter is weaned, it's best to let the mother rest and recuperate for at least a month before re-introducing the male.

Sexing

The difference between a male and a female fat-tailed gerbil is the same as with other small rodents. This difference can be seen at the distance between the urinary and anal openings. The distance between these openings in male fat-tailed gerbils is much larger than it is in females. Adult males have a large bulge at the base of the tail that is their scrotum. So their testicles are clearly visible. This is totally absent from females. When the pups have an age of about 2 weeks the hairs on the belly start to grow and bald spots can be seen on the belly of the females. These are her nipples. These bald spots are absent in males.

Colour Mutations

It appears that in Japan and other places either a grey (g) or chinchilla (cch) mutation has appeared. This fat-tailed gerbil is greyer in colour. But not everyone is sure that it is a colour mutation. It is also possible that these grey fat-tailed gerbils are from the Egyptian subspecies Pachyuromys duprasi natronensis. The juvenile coat of these gerbils is very grey but faded with age to a much more sandy colour. Some hybrids of the Egyptian and the Algerian subspecies have this grey coat as well, although it does lighten with age but is still greyish. Nothing else is known at this time.

Purchase

Duprasi are very new to the pet market, so they are not available on many places. In some countries they are not available, in some they are rare, (Germany, France and the UK) and in some countries, like the Netherlands they are quite common. Occasionally they can be found in a pet shop, but most don’t have them.

Ailments

A healthy fat-tailed gerbil has bright eyes, is lively, and has a soft coat. Their behind is dry and clean. Sick fat-tailed gerbils get lethargic and are not lively. Preventing is always better than curing, especially for small rodents, such as the fat-tailed gerbil. It's not always easy to cure a fat-tailed gerbil. Fat-tailed gerbils are so small that even a vet won't always know how he must treat the animal. For fat-tailed gerbils can catching a cold be very dangerous and even fatal. The biggest threats for a fat-tailed gerbil are draught and moisture, but also too high temperatures, wrong or bad food, and stress can lead to health problems. There is not much known about diseases of fat-tailed gerbils, because this small rodent has not been kept as a pet that long and often. But small rodents have generally the same ailments. An ailment that relatively often can be seen in fat-tailed gerbils are bite wounds at their tail, because fighting fat-tailed gerbils try to bite in each others thick tail.

Cheesman's Gerbil

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Cheesman's gerbil is distributed mainly in Arabian Peninsula to southwestern Iran. The total length of this gerbil is about 22 cm. Cheesman's gerbil appears similar to the Palid gerbil

Cape Short-Eared Gerbil

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The Cape Short-eared Gerbil is a species of rodent in the Muridae family. It is the only species in the genus Desmodillus. It is found in Angola, Botswana, Namibia, and South Africa. Its natural habitats are hot deserts and temperate desert.